I woke up at 2am, extremely disoriented because I had put my head down for “a few minutes” after dinner at about 8pm. The room was dark and my teeth unbrushed. I stumbled into the bathroom, waking The Husband as I did so. He said he had tried to wake me earlier, but I’d grumbled and the only coherent thing he got out of me was the fact that I’d taken all the relevant pills.
I managed to go back to sleep until 6am. We had to wait a bit before breakfast, which was down on level two. It was very sufficient. They had a large pot of chicken and noodles (accompanied by chopsticks) and one of my perennial travel favourites – a pancake machine! While I waited for my pancake, I spotted the Nutella packets near the bread, so of course I grabbed some.
We left at a quarter past nine to mail postcards (there were two boxes, so I guessed and used the priority one as my stamp packaging seemed to match), then went over to the station to meet S!!
Her train was a little late, which allowed us to find platform 10 before it arrived. My phone phantom-dialled my parents just as she walked up to us – whoops! But I suppose S is family, though I’ve never seen her in person before.
We hugged – finally we had met! Re-met?
Then we frantically looked around for a WC (water closet/toilet) for S, who had been travelling for 90 minutes. That done, I led everyone to Kauppatori which had markets – and of course the ferry to Suomenlinna, Helsinki’s sea fortress (it’s spread over some small islands).
The ferry was cold but the sights were fantastic – and there were so many low-lying seagulls for my camera! I was able to retreat to a warm room when necessary.
Suomenlinna was built in the 18th century (during the Swedish era) and was previously called Viapori. Cramped conditions and a rough life made it not so fun for workers and soldiers alike. Scurvy and dysentery were rife.
Then Finland was taken from Sweden by Russia in the Finnish War in 1809. Many people lived at Viapori during this time, in wooden buildings which no longer exist. Cholera hit in the fortress in the 1830s, so that is why there is a cholera cemetery on a nearby island.
In 1918, Finland gained its independence and named the island Suomenlinna. Their garrison moved in and a housing shortage followed. A POW camp was established with 800 prisoners, a crowded situation that resulted in starvation and fatal diseases. There was still no electricity or running water in the 1960s, though that’s changed since.
Suomenlinna is now UNESCO world heritage listed. 800 residents and the Naval Academy now make use of the islands. They even have a grocery store!
Ahem, history lesson over.
We disembarked the ferry at the Jetty Barracks, a pink building dating to the 19th century and designed to house 250 soldiers. Now it has a café and restaurant – we were glad to see these!
S and I, cameras out and at the ready (and flanked by The Husband), approached the nearby Suomenlinna Church. It used to be in the Russian Orthodox style, but was converted to the Lutheran style at the beginning of the Finnish era, losing its onion-shaped dome. It was quite nice to look at, though the surrounding trees were still bare and a bit sad. We enjoyed taking photos of the geese we found.
The islands and bridges forming Suomenlinna felt deserted and it was so very cold – my hands froze, but my legs, encased in jeans and woollen tights, were fine. The cobblestone roads made my ankles ache, so I preferred being on the grass.
We explored some fortifications which had gaps to allow for cannons. The rooms and corridors inside the vast stone walls were not lit and so cold that icicles hung down everywhere. The floor was covered in a thin layer of ice that I cracked and slipped on – I got out of there fairly fast! S was braver than me.
We continued our way past various cannons, now more aesthetically pleasing than actually useful, that dominated the walls of the islands and the Bastion Zander. We passed many hills that had houses dug into them – this reminded me of the prehistoric houses at Skara Brae; the grassy hills made S think of Hobbiton.
We came across a cat with a thick coat and a querulous meow, so of course we patted it and took photos. Our attention was clearly desired, since it followed us down the hill!
There was a flagpole on the bastion but no flag. I later found out that they hoist the flag on my birthday, May 12, because on that day in 1918 a flag was hoisted over free, independent Finland for the first time in that spot.
We passed a memorial for something that occurred in 1937 (a few people listed seemed to die 1-2 days after the event). No further details were given, according to S who read the sign for us. I guessed that it was an explosion – I was right.
There was a munitions-related accident on Vallisaari island, resulting in the deaths of twelve people. The shockwave caused earthquake-like shakes in Helsinki and explosions that continued for an entire day. A black cloud followed.
We hunted for the King’s Gate (now we were more than 1km from the quay), but kept finding walls with cannon holes – and a closed restaurant. But then we found it!
The King’s Gate was small and had two drawbridge doors, a defensible entrance to the fortress – and the main one when built by the Swedes in 1753/1754. The double drawbridge was added in 1790. The gate is named after King Adolf Frederick of Sweden.
The gate afforded quite a good view of the sea and the cruise ships passing by, including a large red one belonging to Viking Cruises. The quay here was closed and the waterbus only stops by in summer.
On our way back to the quay, we passed through the shady and pleasant Great Courtyard, finding a tomb in the middle where the courtyard’s designer is buried. Following this, we enjoyed snacks and drinks at the café inside the Jetty Barracks. I had mint ice cream with my small mud cake. Yum!
We took the 1:20pm ferry and I swapped over to the telescopic lens for the seagulls. It was still so cold though – S and I quickly retreated to the warm room, where The Husband had stayed.
We returned to Kuappatori and found the markets open! I bought a fox-fur scarf for 35 euro. Softer ones were very expensive but I was happy with my fluffy grey one. The woman who sold it to me showed me the different ways it could be tied and worn.
We passed by Helsinki Cathedral again so I could get better photos with the DSLR (The Husband and S stayed back as I did this). I had to switch out the telescopic lens for the normal one because I couldn’t fit the massive building into my shots! S says it is called the “Judgement Church”. Apparently many churches have names like that.
We killed time before S’s 4:06pm train by having lunch in the Ravintola Grande Grill, which had tasty food and a pub-like feel. It was not busy and a nice place to hang out and chat. We then returned to the station and walked. S down to carriage 9 of her train, right down the end of platform 8. We waited long enough to wave her off and then walked away, pleased with the day’s events.
The Husband said S and I got along like a house on fire. I think it was more like an adequately heated house – warm and comfortable. We have known each other for years. Today’s meeting was just a physical confirmation of our friendship.
We stopped by the supermarket for dinner food and here we are at the hotel. I’m trying the chocolate S gave me – and some weird, chewy lollies that. Takes like extremely salty liquorice (apparently it’s called “salmiakki”).
Tomorrow – a castle and Nokia!
No comments:
Post a Comment